2021 Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera Barolo DOCG, Italy

This is a stunning set of wines from Elio Grasso. As always, I tasted the 2021s next to the preceding vintage, which provided a terrific opportunity to compare the wines. I found the 2020s just as compelling as they were last year. The 2021s are the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. While many 2021s offer a good deal of relatively early approachability, the 2021s here require cellaring. Interestingly, today the Ginestra Casa Mat and Gavarini Chiniera feel a bit inverted in their personalities. The Ginestra comes across as a touch linear in its construction, while the Gavarini shows a bit more volume. I also tasted several vintages of the Barolo Riserva Rncot that suggest there are great things in store here. These remain gorgeous, beautifully crystalline Barolos. – Antonio Galloni